We Met Takahina!
Kyoto Rewind: March 29th, 2008
Takahina, Gion's youngest maiko (as of March 29th, 2008) makes her entrance.
Before Takahina entered the traditional, tatami mat room, we took our seat at low, black laquered tables set in a U formation along three walls. The Okami-san, proprietess and manager of the okiya where Takahina lives, called Takahina to join us. Even before she made her entrance, we could hear the hushed rustling of silk and a soft, tinkling chime, perhaps from the dangling metal strips of her hair ornament.
When she finally appeared, emerging from a long dark corridor, everyone gasped, our breath stolen by the sheer spectacle of it all: Her breathtakingly beautiful kimono, the glittering gold thread of her obi, the stark white veil of her makeup beneath a halo of laquered black hair crowned with colorful slik flowers and shimmering silver tassles. Even apart from the exotic extravagance of her regalia, her sweet, subtle grin, delicate features and slender neck, all highlighted by her hair, makeup and dress, made quite a pleasant impression. Introducing herself in a charmingly child-like, high pitched voice, she bowed low, on her knees with her head almost to the ground, asking us for our favor. Yoroshuu otanomooshimasu!
Showing off the elaborate yuzen design of her luxurious, long-sleeved silk kimono, subtly shaded in the sweet pallet of early spring. Yuzen is a textile process that combines a mixture of freehand paste resist and painting, which may also include stencil and shibori work. The decorative flexibility possible with this combination of techniques is unsurpassed. Designs are initially outlined in paste resist, and dyes are then applied to give subtle gradations of tone. Both delicacy and lavishness are characteristic of yuzen, as are traditional themes and decorative designs. Embroidery and gold leaf are sometimes elements of yuzen composition.
Her hair, drawn up in the fashion of young maiko, known as the wareshinobu, compliments her long, slender neck, painted in white save for a fork of bare skin leading down to the risque plunge of her kimono collar.
Ningyou-ke? Is she a doll? (^-^) Have I ever told the story of the child seeing a maiko for the first time as she walked down Shijo with her mother? "Mama, look! Is that a doll?" She squealed excitedly. "That's a maiko-san", her mother giggled. "She does look like a doll, doesn't she. Isin't she cute?"
Takahina was accompanied by her Okami-san, who quickly noticed my brother and I. "Well, well, Takahina-san, we have some foreign guests who were kind enough to come and see us. Now's your chance to practice your English. Do you remember anything?""Umm..." She thought for a moment.With and irresistible shyness, she slowly formed the words, carefully pronouncing each sound. "Wheea aa you from?" she asked, smiling nervously. As she raised the intonation at the end of the question, a point that is often stressed in junior high school English classes, she tilted her head to one side, the fluttering strands of her hana-kanzashi (flowered hair ornament) resting on her cheek.
Keeping everyone entertained, making us all feel special!
Of course Takahina danced for us, but I was too caught up in the experience of it all to worry about taking pictures. Sorry!
Takahina, my brother and I.
The "En" in Nara : 縁
Abbey and I beneath the weeping cherries and watchful eye of Himuro Shrine's Shishi. A shishi, which can be translated as "lion", often refers to a mythical creature with magical power to repel evil spirits..
Abbey's first day in Kyoto had been gray and rainy, but the next morning found us seated outside Starbucks, one of the many guilty pleasure we indulge in outside of Ena, enjoying sunshine mixed soy chai. As usual, we weren't exactly sure where the day would lead us, but since we were so close to the station, I suggested we head for Nara. Abbey had never been there, and in the interest of packing as much Kansai punch into her three day Kyoto foray as possible, she agreed.
A family struggles to satisfy the impatient hunger of Nara's tourist-chasing deer.
Within an hour we were walking the deer-infested streets of Nara, dodging their senbei-sniffing noses and side-stepping the plentiful pellets of deer droppings splattered on the surface of the sidewalk. One thing you'll never find in Japan is the desperate hordes of destitute, poverty-stricken children or tourist dependent adults begging and badgering you for money. Instead, they have sacred deer, free from harm, free to roam, and free from the burden of finding food for themselves. Tourists excitedly buy shika senbei, or deer rice crackers, to feed to the ravenous hordes.
Once the deer started to surround me, I made a break for it, hoping to escape unscathed.
I have been to Nara at least five times, but I had never tried or wanted to try feeding those freakin' deer. I knew better. But during my last trip to Japan, I was persuaded by a friend to give it a try. "It's not like they bite!" He laughed at my feigned excitement. Little did he know...
That's me getting attacked from both ends. The deer in front over-bit, planting a lovely slop of saliva on my fingers, while his buddy bit my bum from behind. I may look like I was pleasantly suprised, but I assure you that it felt anything but pleasant.
It's a hold up! Having unloaded all of his shika sembei on an unsuspecting victim (me), my friend escaped unscathed instead. To tell the truth, I'm suprised. Those deer don't look particularly pleased.
Elementary school children try to capture the craziness of Nara's infamous deer with their ketai, or cell phone, camera.
The five story pagoda of Kofukuji.
As we wandered through public parks and temple grounds, absent-mindedly admiring the anceint architecture and ethereal cherry blossoms, we stumbled upon a young American man traveling with his father who had seen us in Starbucks the day before. An exchange student spending a gap year studying in a Japanese High School, he had recognized me from my blog (something that, strangely enough, only happens in Kyoto). Before they knew it, we had high-jacked their peaceful father-son afternoon, insisting that they join us for our slow and study trek in the general direction of Todaiji, the Great Eastern Temple.
Along the way we noticed a modest shrine on the main road overflowing with cherry blossoms in full bloom. They spilled over the brilliant tangerine torii, or spiritual gate, covering the graveled pathway like Anne's White Way of Delight. Sunshine spilled like watery jewels, dripping through the leaves, filtered by the velvety petals into clouds of playful light.
Towering tendrils of blossom-burdened branches tumbling down....
Unfortunately, most shrines are not barrier-free.
More about Todaiji tomorrow....